In the world of permanent makeup (PMU), understanding the nuances of different skin tones is essential for delivering beautiful, long-lasting results. As a master PMU artist and trainer with over 20 years of experience, I’ve encountered many common mistakes artists make when working with a variety of skin tones, from melanin-rich to fair and mature. In this article, I’ll share the top 10 mistakes in PMU for different skin tones—and, more importantly, how to avoid or fix them for flawless, client-pleasing results.

1. Using the Wrong Pigment for Melanin-Rich Skin

Melanin-rich skin can sometimes cause pigments to heal cooler or ashy. Choosing pigments that are too dark or cool-toned can lead to unexpected color shifts.

Solution: Opt for warm-toned pigments that balance out melanin-rich undertones. Look for warm browns or reds for brows and lips, avoiding cool undertones in eyeliner to prevent a bluish effect as it heals.

2. Choosing Pigments That Are Too Bold for Fair Skin

Fair skin often holds pigment well, but overly bold colors can overpower delicate features, especially on brows or lips.

Solution: Select softer, neutral pigments for fair skin tones to create a natural look. Light ash browns, taupes, and soft pinks for lips are flattering and avoid a harsh appearance.

3. Overworking Mature Skin

Mature skin is thinner, less resilient, and requires a delicate approach. Too many passes with a needle can damage the skin and lead to poor pigment retention or uneven healing.

Solution: Use a light hand and fewer needle passes to minimize trauma. Choosing a powder or ombre shading technique for brows works well, creating a soft, natural look that heals beautifully on mature skin.

4. Incorrect Stretching Techniques on Looser Skin Types

For mature or less resilient skin, stretching techniques are crucial. Failing to stretch the skin properly can cause uneven pigment distribution.

Solution: Use a gentle three-point stretch to keep the skin taut. This helps the pigment implant evenly, especially on looser skin types where proper stretch makes a significant difference in the healed result.

5. Misjudging Healing and Color Retention for Different Skin Tones

Different skin tones and types can affect color retention and the healed results. For example, melanin-rich skin may experience color shifts or fading if pigments aren’t chosen carefully.

Solution: Consider undertones and choose pigments with strong stability. Always explain the healing process to clients based on their skin type to manage expectations, and book follow-up sessions as needed to achieve the desired results.

6. Ignoring the Impact of Undertones on Color Choice

Undertones are crucial in PMU. Choosing a pigment without considering undertones can lead to unwanted color shifts, like ashiness on melanin-rich skin or orange hues on fair skin.

Solution: Determine the client’s undertone (warm, cool, or neutral) and select pigments that complement it. For example, warm undertones benefit from cooler pigments and vice versa to create balance.

7. Applying Excessively Thick Eyeliner on Mature or Hooded Eyes

Thick eyeliner can be overwhelming on mature or hooded eyes, where skin elasticity is reduced. This can result in smudged or unnatural-looking eyeliner.

Solution: Use a thin, lash-enhancement approach. A subtle liner that enhances the lash line works best on these eye types, giving a natural lift without overpowering the eye shape.

8. Not Accounting for Sun Exposure on Melanin-Rich and Fair Skin

Sun exposure can cause PMU to fade prematurely, especially on melanin-rich or very fair skin, which may react differently to UV exposure.

Solution: Advise clients on the importance of sun protection, especially post-procedure. Use high-quality pigments that resist fading, and educate clients on sunscreen application and reapplication over PMU areas.

9. Using Heavy or Dark Pigments on Lips Without Color Correction

Dark or uneven lips, common in melanin-rich skin, may require neutralization before applying a final color. Applying pigment directly can lead to patchy or uneven results.

Solution: Start with a neutralization technique using warm, orange-based pigments to balance out darkness. Once healed, apply the client’s desired color for even, beautiful lip color.

10. Skipping Thorough Client Consultations on Pigment Expectations

Without a thorough consultation, clients may have unrealistic expectations about color or longevity, especially with various skin tones that impact healing results differently.

Solution: Prioritize client consultations to set clear expectations. Educate them on how their specific skin type may influence the final look, color retention, and the necessity for touch-ups to maintain vibrant results.

Final Thoughts

Each skin type requires a unique approach in PMU to ensure stunning, long-lasting results. By avoiding these common mistakes and using customized techniques for each skin tone, you’ll provide a superior experience for your clients and establish yourself as a knowledgeable, skilled PMU artist.

Whether you’re working with melanin-rich, fair, or mature skin, mastering these strategies will elevate your PMU skills and help you create stunning results that clients love. For more expert tips and guidance, check out my PMU training courses designed for artists at every level. With over 20 years in the industry, I’m here to help you achieve excellence in every PMU application.